Raf Simons: Transparent Tailoring for Designer Clothing

Raf Simons unveiled his latest menswear collection Friday night, June 26, in a giant Paris institute for the hearing impaired, and the collection spoke several volumes about what’s new in fashion.

Few collections better underlined the current craze by designers for using transparent fabrics and juxtaposing materials in otherwise classically tailored suits.

In Simons’ case, this involved placing an interior lining on the outside of jackets, or cutting side “windowpanes” of see-through nylon on the sides of coats.

For Spring 2010, Simons pulled off several surprises, like ribbed pullovers with sleeves made of pinstripe worsted fabrics or bowling jackets featuring multi-zip fronts.

Raf Simons Men Spring 2010 Fashion Show, Paris

“I’ve seen some beautiful outfits for men in the last few years, but little that has excited me,” said Simons. “So I wanted some emotion in these trendy clothes.”

The clothes were beautifully tailored and the show had great charm, staged on a massive terrace before a garden of rose arbors and exotic smelling plants.

Simons’ night job is as designer of Jil Sander, a true temple of minimalism, but his own line has always had a quirkier touch, emphasized by the transparent silk tunics with prints featuring angry serpents circling their prey.

“I really want to impose my brand,” said the designer of this imagery, whose curly shape was echoed on the back of every models’ head – they all boasted miniature pigtails at the nape of their necks.

Source: FWD

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Giorgio Armani Goes Graphic

It was all about linear shapes and graphics in the menswear runway show by Giorgio Armani on Saturday, June 20, a collection right in sync with the new nomadic moment sweeping through Italian fashion.

Archly striped silvery suits and bold Argyle-style diamond pattern jerseys, two-tone brogues and snazzy shirts in Azulejo tile patterns had lots of punch.

Giorgio Armani Men Spring 2010 Fashion Show, Milan

For next spring, Armani wants guys in lean yet sensitive suits, cut taut at the shoulder and fluid at the hip. They demand a fit body to work well, but in an era where expense account lunches are infrequent, a slender silhouette seems very with the times.

Also noticeable was the almost compete absence of ties. Instead, most of the models looked like they were heading off to dinner after a workout at the gym, not dashing off to close a mega deal.

Not everything worked, in particular a foursome of models in indigo toweling worn with white high tops with shin guards, which were rather silly.

But when it came to his selection of leather looks, Armani hit several home runs. Though he’s still best known for his razor sharp tailoring, in recent years much of Armani’s best design work for men has been his crumpled and distressed leather looks for guys. Frequently they are motorbike jackets that will never sit astride any actual bike, but if one wants to make the right impression on a date, these looks complement most any male. And his selection of faux snakeskin weekend leather bags – a big fashion trend here for guys on the move – were the best seen thus far in .

Source: FWD

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Cynthia Rowley’s Recessionista Beauty

Complexions at Cynthia Rowley’s Resort 2010 show radiated warmth and good health: “Everyone wants to be bronze and sexy for vacation,” says makeup artist Dominick Briguglio, who relied on Stila’s Bronzing Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15 and Mango Crush Lip & Cheek Stain to create the golden glow. But whereas the makeup may have been resort-inspired, Rowley’s collection was decidedly not.

“There are the classic bits of nautical inspiration, but you don’t have to be traveling to wear it,” says the designer. “I wanted to make the clothes less bourgeois, so I picked materials from past collections and remade them into new things. But I’m calling it refashioned and reimagined rather than recycled or repurposed.”

Ribbon in particular was one of Rowley’s favorite “refashioned” materials. Instead of using ribbons in the hair, however, the crafty recessionista stitched them onto skirts in a “graffitilike pattern,” reserving a less conservative coif accessory—newspaper—for models’ side-swept strands. “Cynthia’s a genius—she designed bows out of newspaper,” says Rodney Cutler, who wrapped locks with the avant-garde creation. After prepping tresses with Cutler Volumizing Spray and Redken Workforce 09 Flexible Volumizing Spray, Cutler twisted the hair into a low side ponytail. To finish, he folded the pony around the bow and secured the quirky bun with hair pins.

Source: Elle

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